Jorge Luis Borges saw Monserrat as a neighborhood steeped in history and tradition, an essential part of old Buenos Aires that, although transformed by modernity, remains present in the memory of the city. In his essay “Monserrat” (1968), he describes it as “a memory of the things that were,” highlighting its colonial past, the compadritos, and the echo of Afro-Argentine candombe. Borges recalls a popular verse that reflects the fame of tough guys in the neighborhood:
Soy del barrio ’e Monserrate,
donde relumbra el acero;
lo que digo con el pico
lo sostengo con el cuero.
In interviews, he confessed that, even when he was far away, in his dreams he “always returned to Monserrat.” He also referred to it poetically in Fervor de Buenos Aires (1923), evoking the courtyards and passageways of the southern part of Buenos Aires:
El olor del jazmín y la madreselva,
el arco del zaguán…
esas cosas, acaso, son el poema.
Finally, in “Fundación mítica de Buenos Aires” (1929), Borges reaffirms his vision of the city as something eternal, linking Monserrat with its porteña essence:
A mí se me hace cuento que empezó Buenos Aires…La juzgo tan eterna como el agua y como el aire.
For Borges, Monserrat was not just a neighborhood, but a space where history and the memory of Buenos Aires intertwine, a symbol of the city’s identity.
Chacabuco Street is one of the traditional arteries of the historic center of Buenos Aires, located in the neighborhoods of Monserrat and San Telmo. Its name commemorates the Battle of Chacabuco (1817), in which the Army of the Andes, led by José de San Martín, defeated the royalists in Chile.
With its narrow, cobblestone layout, Chacabuco retains the colonial spirit in which it was born. In its early years, at the end of the 18th century and the beginning of the 19th century, it was part of the city’s expansion southward, becoming a key point in Buenos Aires’ life. Along its route, one can find old mansions, tenement houses, churches, and cafés that evoke the history and transformation of the city. Its bells still ring, and with them, the announcement of masses and other events continues to mark the rhythm of the city, reminding us that although Buenos Aires has changed, its essence remains alive in every corner of the neighborhood.
Borges, J.L., Textos recobrados (1956-1986).
Borges, J.L., Fervor de Buenos Aires (1923)
.Borges, J.L., Cuaderno San Martín (1929).
Borges, J.L., Siete noches (1980).
Entrevistas y conferencias recopiladas en Diálogos con Borges.
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